Recent content by Manto76

  1. Any Oversized Chinese looping blades?

    If you can find one, the Nittaku Ma Long Seven fits the brief: https://blog.tabletennis11.com/nittaku-ma-long-seven-review
  2. Im losing faith in the sport

    Lots of kind and helpful thoughts on this thread so far. I'll add my 2c worth: I don't think you need to switch to pips, but I do think it may be worth using a more forgiving setup for a while. Using a Viscaria with T05 both sides requires you to be in the correct position using the correct...
  3. Recommendations for a soft controlled BH-Rubber?

    I think the Impuls range are all Spruce blades, aren't they? If so, they'll feel world's apart from the handful I mentioned previously—or any other Limba/Koto outer blade. As a relatively new player, a Limba outer blade is probably going to serve you best.
  4. Can rubbers achieve even more catapult than currently?

    Okay, I understand what you're saying now. You're saying that each brand's "flagship" rubber today has higher performance potential than their flagship rubber did 10 years ago. In that case, I agree. Certainly in the case of Euro./Japanese rubbers that's true, though I'm not sure if the same...
  5. How to stop loop and pray

    Get yourself a Butterfly Korbel or Xiom Offensive S, put a H3 Neo (Commercial) on one side and a Butterfly Rozena or Rakza 7 on the other, and train with that for 2 years. Your match-play should improve in leaps and bounds. Note: "match-play." Lots of players can look world-class in training...
  6. Can rubbers achieve even more catapult than currently?

    Do you really think so, Tony? Are you talking about rubbers of the same hardness? I agree with you that rubbers such as the Dignics series, MX-D, all the new "Hard" and "Extra Hard" variants (i.e 50-degrees and upwards), and top-end hybrids (Dragon Grip, K3, C53, etc.) have higher performance...
  7. Fast blade with slow rubber or slow blade with fast rubber?

    The Yinhe Pro 1 is very close to Viscaria, and is only a fraction of the price. One of those might serve you well as an experimental blade.
  8. Omega 7 Asia Fh on 5 ply all wood allround blade

    Spinfactory tested the Omega 7 Asia on a blade they describe as 5-ply all wood OFF-. Looks like a nice combo. You can see the video here:
  9. Looking for a backhand-punch rubber

    Rakza 7. It won't give you quite the same 'venom' in your punch as MXP or V15 Extra, but it's easier to open up with, a bit more forgiving generally, and still generates more than respectable spin.
  10. Downgrade blade back to all-wood?

    Take a look at Carl's post at #25 in this thread; he's explained it very nicely. Basically, Carl's point (which I think is exactly correct) is that it's not only about speed, it's also about feel. All wood blades vibrate more naturally, thus providing good feedback to your nervous system and...
  11. Downgrade blade back to all-wood?

    Okay, we can agree to disagree. Your argument is 'more power = greater performance', and I accept that that's the way you see it. For sure that argument is debatable though!
  12. Recommendations for a soft controlled BH-Rubber?

    How do you find Aurus compared to Rozena and G1? (With apologies to the OP for this tangential question :) )
  13. Recommendations for a soft controlled BH-Rubber?

    No, it just means that you should have realistic expectations of what a softer rubber will and won't do for you. The few I mentioned, especially the Rakza 7 Soft and Vega Euro DF, are very popular soft rubbers. They're proven performers in their category, but they're not going to play hugely...
  14. Recommendations for a soft controlled BH-Rubber?

    Soft rubbers are usually fairly spin-sensitive; it's difficult to separate those two characteristics. Some tried-and-tested soft rubbers that are fairly easy to control: Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft Xiom Vega Europe DF Andro Hexer Powergrip SFX Andro Hexer Grip SFX Tibhar Evolution FX-S Tibhar Aurus Soft
  15. Downgrade blade back to all-wood?

    Respectfully, I disagree with you on this. Performance should be understood in relation to one's objectives. For example, if my objective is to have a car that is a useful family car (i.e. can easily and safely transport three kids, bicycles, dogs, grocery shopping, IKEA furniture packs, etc.)...
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